Manual of amphibious oceanography

the long version

"This manual has been prepared under the direction of Dean M. P. O'Brien and Professor J. W. Johnson with Mr. R. L. Wiegel as Project Engineer. ... In fulfillment of a contract between the Institute of Engineering Research, University of California and the Office of Naval Research (Contract no. N7onr-29535, Project no. NR 252-003) staff members of the Waves Investigations Group collected, compiled and evaluated all available information on waves, surf, beaches, and landing craft"--Pref.